Friday, November 11 – Talking to the children

Stardate 1112.16 – Our communications systems are down.  We are either in a dead zone for radio reception or the Klingons are jamming our signals.  We have not been able to contact Starfleet Command not have we received updates from them.  We will try again.

The Rotterdam is in Barcelona, so, by extension, are we even though we never went ashore.  We had scheduled a Skype conversation with Harper Jane and Emily for 8 a.m. Baltimore time which was 2 p.m. for us.  Going into town and returning in time to make the call would have been too rushed.  We slept in and loafed around the ship until it was time to call.

Conversations with HJ are not really conversations; they are shouting festivals.  The girl has yet to develop an “inside voice” and exhibits a great deal of enthusiasm.  Mostly, she told us she had a surprise to tell us which was that we were an assortment animals.  It was fun and funny and we are sure that she stayed excited all the way to school.  We hope to talk to The Boys tomorrow.

We invited a new couple to dinner tonight.  They sit practically beside us in the MDR and we have seen and spoken with them often in the past 2 weeks.  They are from Cleveland, so we gave them grief over yesterday’s loss to the Ravens.  Other than that, we swapped stories about cruising before heading back to the cabin to read and write.

TOMMOROW – On the Way to Florence

Thursday, November 10 -- Barcelona

We got lazy [and depressed] yesterday and did not post the blog, but our brief report on Alicante will appear below. 

Barcelona is a magical city.  Its people, architecture and vibe are unlike any other we have visited.  Even a brief visit is enjoyable, and that’s what we had today.  Once again, we had no tours planned, so there was no rush to hurry off the ship.  We ate a leisurely breakfast in the MDR, returned to the room to finish reading the NYT and to complete the crossword puzzle; as the week progresses, the NYT puzzles get more difficult and we were surprised to collectively complete today’s.

We finally loaded all of our “stuff” and were ready to go.  We had sunglasses, reading glasses, hats, coats, room keys and enough euro coins to use as ballast on a hot air balloon.  Barcelona conspired to make us walk forever to get to and through the terminal; previously, we have docked almost at the foot of La Rambla, the most famous street in the city, and had only to walk a short way to begin our explorations.  Today, we were at a new cruise terminal about two miles from the Columbus statue at the foot of La Rambla and had to pay 5 euros per person for all-day passes for the shuttle to the old terminal.  For all of the money cruisers bring to Barcelona, one would expect them to provide this service gratefully.   In a perfect world….

So we rode to the old terminal and still had a half-mile walk to Christopher Columbus.  This statue and the circle around it serve as the starting point for HoHo buses and walking tours as well as a meeting point for groups lest some get lost.  It is easy to find and easy to see.

Every time we have been to Barcelona, dating back to 2001, we have visited La Sagrada Familia, The Holy Family church designed by Antonio Gaudi.  Gaudi die long before it was completed; in fact it still isn’t finished despite having been started over a century ago.  We like the church itself which incorporates stylized elements from nature as decorative embellishments, especially on the exterior.  From a distance, the church looks like it is made from melting wax, but up close, the details are visible and astonishing.  We have never seen it without scaffolding surrounding the still-incomplete towers.  The last tower is supposed to rise about 400 feet above ground and will dwarf pretty much everything in Barcelona.

Today, we had less ambitious plans.  We walked up La Rambla until MA had to sit for a minute at an outdoor cafe, then continued walking.  We were maintaining a sedate pace, to put it mildly.  When we reached McDonald’s, we stopped again.   MA got a cappuccino and we walked up the second floor [called the first in Europe] because we could not figure out how to get the little elevator to work.  We took advantage of Mickey’s free wi-fi to catch up on mail and Facebook.  While we really stopped because of MA’s back, the cappuccino and internet were a bonus.

The cappuccino was only 1 euro, a bargain in itself.  We have decided that our greatest expense on this cruise, aside from saffron and the ship’s internet, may be shuttle service in the ports.  We know that we can walk into what passes for a town in Katakolon, Greece, but we are not sure of all of the other ports.

Because we wanted to see something new on this visit, we headed to the market.  Landmarks are the same all over the world.  We turned right from McDonald’s [which is across the street for KFC] and walked until we got to the Dunkin’ Coffee [which did indeed, sell doughnuts, too].  A left turn brought us face-to-face with the market’s main entrance.  We walked the aisles for about 15 minutes taking in the Serrano hams, the sea urchins and oysters, the fresh fruit cups and gelato, all while being jostled by the crowd.  Although it was mid-day on a Thursday, the market was packed.  Not only were locals doing their grocery shopping, they were at the bars and food counters eating, drinking and having a grand old time.

As much as we love to roam markets, we knew it was time to leave when MA started to flag.  We found our way back to the entrance and La Rambla.  The Ramblas, as it is often called by tourists, is a broad avenue with a center pedestrian island.  Motorized traffic is restricted by the width of the 2 lanes which define it.  Traffic was still heavy considering that the going is slow and there is only the one lane in each direction.  Trucks, cars, taxis, motorcycles and bicycles kept up a constant flow.  In the center island, things were not much different.  Tourists and locals mingled and collided [well, almost] in a crush that was actually calm compared to our previous visits.  Mixed in with the pedestrians and their selfie-sticks were living statues who posed hoping for tips; panhandlers; and sidewalk cafes, each serving similar food.  The most interesting aspect of these cafes is that the waiters have to cross the street to place and pick up the orders.  There were a dozen or more and we picked one that already had several tables filled.  We took that as good sign.  We both ordered the feta salad which was like a Greek salad with more feta and few olives [these were green] and onions.  Accompanied by MA’s sangria and D’s usual Diet Coke, it made for a fine lunch.  When we were done, we finished the trek back to the old terminal for the ride back to the Rotterdam.

 TOMORROW  -- Day 2 in Barcelona

Wednesday, November 9 – Alicante

We docked in Alicante in 2001 and, for whatever reason lost in the mists of time, stayed on board the ship.  We did the same thing today while trying to come to terms with the American electorate.  We slept a lot. 

End of story.

TOMORROW – Beautiful Barcelona

Tuesday, November 8 – Decisions, Decisions

When we were here in the Spring of 2015, we had three goals – to find lidocaine patches for MA; to buy saffron; and to get lunch.  We were unsuccessful in all three.  We fared better today.

Malaga is a lot like other towns we have visited in Spain.  It has a large pedestrian shopping area catering to the local population rather than the tourists who flood the place.  Yes, it has its historical landmarks, forts, churches and museums but we were able to avoid anything of cultural value.

We were in no hurry to go ashore and ate a leisurely breakfast in the MDR.  We finally disembarked sometime after 10, went through the terminal and past all of the shops and outside to catch the shuttle to town.  Last year the ship docked at the old terminal right by the heart of town; today, we were at the new terminal and a 45 minute walk to town.  The city graciously provided a shuttle bus but charged 5 euros for the round-trip.

Once we were in town, we got a map of the city just to confirm where the city market was located and headed out on our adventure.  Last year, we were here on a Saturday and the pedestrian shopping area and, especially, the market were so crowded it was hard to walk; we could barely get into the market and turned around immediately.  This morning we walked right in [once we found it] and were smack in front of a spice seller.  Rather than risk getting lost in the market, we bought 3 containers of saffron but had to mortgage the house to pay for them.  One task completed successfully.

By this time, almost noon, we decided it was too early for lunch, but we would stop for coffee.  A cappuccino would be hit the spot.  We ended up at one of the cafes where we couldn’t get service last year, but this time we had no problem.  Decaf cappuccino and free wi-fi made this another successful choice.

While MA finished her coffee and Facebook, D checked out several nearby stores selling eyeglasses.  Prices and styles varied as did shopkeepers’ attitudes, but D found a comfortable pair in the right strength.  Even better, it was the least expensive pair he tried.  Still, at 16 euros for the pair, they were triple the price of the ones he had from Costco.  Another task completed.  We were 3 for 3.

Not pressing our luck, we meandered back to the shuttle stop and returned the ship, happy and sweaty.  Sweaty?  Temperatures were in the mid-60s, but we had on lined jackets [and D was wearing a sweater as well] on a bright, sunny day.  We will wear fewer layers tomorrow.

Lunch in the Lido, trivia and afternoon SCAN completed, it was time for dinner.  MA had invited a couple from a neighboring table to join us. They talked a lot, perhaps too much, but it was all about themselves.  We will not be making the same mistake again.

Back in the cabin, we watched some pointless election coverage from MSNBC because CNN is not available on the ship.  It may be 10:15 p.m. here, but it is only 4:15 in Maryland.  When we awaken in the morning at 8:00 or so, it will be 2 a.m. and the polls nationwide will have closed.  Maybe we will find out who won the election then.  Of course, we live in Palm Beach County, maker of presidents, and we remember the 2000 agony.

TOMORROW – Alicante, Spain

Monday, November 7 – Another Quiet Day at Sea

The most exciting but least pleasant part of the day was setting the clocks ahead still another hour, so we are now six hours of the East Coast.  That means that Wednesday morning for us will coincide with the closing of the polls on the West Coast Tuesday and the election results will be real news for a change.  We will be able to read all about the aftermath on the NYT website Wednesday morning.

We followed the sea day routine [substituting afternoon tea for lunch] so instead of recapping it yet again, let’s talk about laundry.  Frequent fliers, so to speak, are called Mariners on HAL.  The more you sail, the higher the category or more stars you accumulate.  Four and Five Star Mariners get free laundry and pressing service during the voyage, a not-insignificant perk which can affect what one packs for the trip.

Since we qualify for this service, we take full advantage of it and send clothes out almost every day.  We used to cram as much as we could in the laundry bag, but now we don’t care.  Our cabin stewards took a few days to catch on to our routine and bring new bags and lists whenever we left a laundry bag on the bed.

We presumed that turnaround would take a day or even two.  Although the ship is not full, approximately 30% of the passengers are eligible for free laundry, a number which could create a backlog.  It hasn’t happened yet.  Our clean clothes are returned to us in less than 24 hours and often reappear the same day they are sent out.  And they are dry which hasn’t always been the case before.

TOMORROW – Malaga, Spain

Sunday, November 6 – Leftovers

In the good news/bad news department, our packing has caught up to us.  When we were shopping for the wine yesterday, D pulled his reading glasses from his pocket only to discover that one of the ear pieces had become separated from the rest of the pair.  Despite our best efforts, they are doomed, so we will have a new mission when we get to Malaga on Tuesday.  MA had suggested he pack two pair; now it is too late.

On the positive side, we packed a blue tooth speaker we received on the GWV last year and paired it with one of the tablet computers so we have music in the room whenever we want.  Our choices range from Billy Joel [which we played the other night in honor of the evening’s entertainment] to Broadway, jazz and classics.  Currently, Henry Mancini is playing while we dress for dinner [more on that shortly].

Going from leftover news to leftovers, we have told Roy, our waiter, that we want to take a break from the tempura vegetables at dinner.  By the time we have the veggies and appetizers, we are too full to appreciate the entrees and nightly cappuccino.  He was delighted!  He had been ordering two plates anyway and keeping one for himself for after dinner-service.  Now, he can give one to Sudi, his assistant.  Since the kitchen staff was used to preparing two plates, this will not upset their routine and what they don’t know won’t hurt them.

We pushed the clocks forward again today so we are now 5 hours ahead of the East Coast.  We have left the laptop on Eastern time and it is supposed to revert to EST automatically.  We love technology when it works.  Of course, the change meant that we lost lunchtime again today and will lose it tomorrow as we race to synch with Malaga.

Tonight was our second formal night and we were invited to dine with an unspecified officer.  We suspect that there will be an effort to have all of the 5-Star Mariners eat with an officer before the end of the cruise.  We can’t account for our selection on any other basis [except wit and sparkling good looks].  When we arrived at the MDR, we were led to “the big table” where everyone could see us.  There was one other couple plus a single man who came after us.  As it turned out, our anonymous officer was the Hotel Manager who was accompanied by the “art lady” who handles the ship’s art auctions.  Naturally, most of the conversation revolved around cruising with the other passengers playing “one-upmanship” and “drop that name.”  To hear them tell it, they are never home because they cruise so much.  The HM was pleasant enough and spoke of all his HAL ships and background.  Pleasant as it was, we have enjoyed these dinners more with other officers, most recently Capt. Smit on the Westerdam.

Back in the room again a bit past 8 [3 pm EST], we tried to Skype with HJ and Emily without luck, so MA went on line to catch up on Words with Friends and Facebook.

TOMORROW – At Sea, Still

Saturday, November 5 – It seems like old times

In April, 2015, we visited the Azores with mixed success.  We were not able to make port Horta, so we were lucky enough to spend two days in Ponta Delgado.  Both of these islands are volcanic rocks sitting in the middle of the Atlantic about 900 miles west of the nearest land mass.  Their position made them vital re-supply points during World War II.  The have similar architecture and lifestyles, depending mostly on agriculture and tourism.

The cruise facility at Ponta Delgada has been completely rebuilt since our first visit many years ago.  It is now attached to a small shopping mall complete with a Burger King, cafes and tchotchke shops.  Just across the road are stores of all types under apartments.  While the “traditional” architecture has only several storeys, PD’s downtown is full of more modern highrises with balconies facing the ocean.  The island, really a mountain top, rises steeply past the town and into farms and fields.  These are only 4 or 5 blocks from the ship.  In 2015, D climbed halfway to heaven looking for a pharmacy and can attest to the steepness of the hill and the streets.

Our mission today was simple – to return to a grocery store we found last year where we bought Spanish red wine.  We were told of this store by Ken and Lois who found it by chance.  The wine we bought then – and hoped to find today – was packaged in 1 liter boxes like kid’s fruit punch [minus the straw] and cost 1 euro per liter.  That is not a misprint.  MA said it made a really good sangria, so we wanted to replenish our supply.  As the saying goes, we may never come this way again.

Before leaving the ship, we applied MA’s lidocaine patches [the same ones we were searching for here last year] to make the walking easier.  This was our first foray of the ship and we didn’t want it ruined by back pain.  We made our way around the shopping plaza and up the elevator to the main road and crossed without incident.  Drivers in PD stop immediately for anyone in or even near a crosswalk. 

We passed a large but inanimate cow, more tourist shops and cafes but could not find the grocery store we wanted.  We stopped outside a wine shop [definitely not selling what we wanted!] and asked for directions to the market.  The salesgirl in the shop spoke impeccable English but we stumbled over the meaning of “market.”  At first she thought we were looking for the local fruit and vegetable market [mercado in Spanish but we were Portugal].  Then she realized we meant a supermarket and gave us directions to [wait for it]…the store with the cow outside.

We walked back whence we had come and entered one of several doors by the cow.  Oops, wrong shop!  But wait, there were actually several stores connected by a common entrance.  The grocery was the one closest to the ship [and the cow].  The wine was in the same place on the shelf that we remembered and we eagerly placed 6 liters in our cart before adding to packages of cookies to have in the room.  At checkout, the total was less than 8 euros. 

Back on the Rotterdam, it became a day at sea in port: lunch in the Lido, reading in one of the lounges, trivia, SCAN, dinner, reading/writing.  We skipped the show again, someone playing a glass violin.

As experienced HAL cruisers know, there are always chocolates on the bed at night.  So far, most have been dark chocolate for a change.  However, we have found a new source of calories which is even better; the ice cream bar now includes stroopwaffels alongside the cookies.  We discovered these gooey pressed sandwiches when we visited the Netherlands in 2014.  While those were several inches across, these are bite-sized and make a good afternoon snack.  We have been stockpiling them in the cabin against a shortage which we will probably cause.

TOMORROW – The First of Two More Sea Days

Friday, November 4 – Land at Last

We are docked in Horta today.  We were here many years ago and took a ship’s tour to a pineapple plantation.  We have missed stops here at least twice because of weather.  Today we made our own tour of the cabin.

MA had a restless night, so we stayed in later than usual.  As a result, we missed breakfast in the MDR and the Lido which, much to our surprise, closes a half-hour early on port days.  Breakfast became sticky buns and coffee.  While hardly healthy, it was quite tasty.  After a stroll around the deck to look at the town and assess the weather, we returned to the room to read and write yesterday’s journal entry [see below].  When the tablet started to fall from MA’s hands, it was time for a morning rest.  D woke her for lunch in the Lido because the MDR does not serve lunch on port days.  We were happy to find meatloaf; again, not so healthy especially when paired with French fries, but satisfying.

After lunch, it was nap time again, especially for MA.  D slept for a little bit but spent much of the SCAN reading.  Once he woke MA up, he went to see the Future Cruise Lady. 

We have a cruise scheduled for next spring with stops in Amsterdam.  The printed itinerary says that the ship will dock in Ijmuiden, way the heck outside of town, but Cruise Lady reconfirmed that the Prinsendam will, indeed, dock in downtown Amsterdam where we have docked in the past.  This was great news for us because it means that we will be able to meet with cruise friends who are coming early for their own cruise out of Amsterdam; it would have been impossible and/or too expensive to do it from the original dock.  We are also interested in a cruise to celebrate our 50^th anniversary, but the ones which might interest us [and which actually include our anniversary] also include Christmas and we don’t want to miss the chance to be with the family.  We have plenty of time to work something out.

The entertainment tonight was a “cast” show, so we skipped it.  They are usually too loud and overproduced by our standards, so we rarely attend them.  Back in the room for reading and writing, as usual.

 

TOMORROW -- Ponta Delgado

Thursday, November 3 – Still Adrift in the Atlantic

We will be in the Azores tomorrow and Saturday, making today our last sea day on this trans-Atlantic crossing.  True, we will be at sea again Sunday and Monday as we make our way to Malaga, Spain, but many of the passengers are hailing this as the last sea day.

There was little to distinguish it from any of the others.  We attended George’s morning lecture which was mostly about how sexual attraction among animals is a major factor in genetic changes.  Mostly, though, it was about mating rituals for a few species for which he had video although none of it appeared to be his.  And he never explained how attracting a mate through these rituals helped strengthen or reinforce the species’ gene pools.  We also noted that in every case he cited it was the male who enacted the ritual and had the elaborate plumage while with humans it is the normally the female who dresses to attract the male.  George has some interesting information, but he does not connect the dots very well.  As teachers, we continue to be disappointed with his lesson-planning.

We turned the clocks forward again, so lunch was a quick affair of cheese and crackers before Trivia.  We could have done a bit better today [12 points], but the group next to us thought we did well “for a team of two.”  We weren’t sure if that was a compliment or not.

The entertainment tonight was repeat performances by Juan Pablo and a ukulele player who had done his firs show before we boarded. 

TOMORROW – Horta, Azores, Portugal